Ball Python Care Sheet  

~ nocturnal, terrestrial, carnivorous ~

Size:

Ball Pythons reach sizes between 3 and 5 feet, females generally being larger.

Life Span:

They usually live at least 25 years when in good care.

Cage Size

The cage can be a regular 30 gallon for an adult male, but females will need something larger. This is recommended as the first tank size just because you won't have to change the tank every time your snake grows a little. They can be store bought or custom made. If you make your own, make sure you don't use any rough wood that could scuff your snake's head or nose if it rubs against the sides or top, which most do frequently. If you do make a big enclosure, be sure to provide multiple hides to ensure the snake stays stress-free.

Heating

On one side of the enclosure it should be about 78 degrees, and about 90 on the other. Reptiles need more heat to thermo regulate and digest food. Because they are cold-blooded, they need an external source of heat, but this is covered in the substrate section.

Lighting

Because snakes are mostly nocturnal, they do not require a light or photoperiod, but I recommend one as do most breeders and keepers. The regular lighting in a house is sufficient.

Substrate

This is highly debatable like with most reptiles, due to impaction. This is when your herp swallows some of the dirt or wood chips and it blocks their digestive tract. You may use vinyl or astroturf because it retains the heat, but leaves your snake with less security. Or you may use reptibark with the possibility of impaction, but holds moisture and is more comfortable. Lastly is newspaper. How attractive. This is, however, the easiest to clean but retains no moisture or the fecies. This is up to you I am not suggesting anything (astroturf or bark) but I will say not to use sand. If you use bark, be sure not to feed your snake on it to decrease chances of impaction.

 Furnishings

Your snake should not have to chose between heat and security, so be sure to have a hide on both sides of the enclosure. They are not arboreal (tree dwellers) but instead live low on the ground. The only reason they climb to the top of enclosures is to push at the top. you can throw in fake plants or pretty much anything you want - just make sure it poses no threat to your snake though like poisonous plants people put in because it "looks cool".

Humidity

They do not require a lot of humidity, but 60% is suggested. It is, however, important to provide a water bowl that your snake can roll up inside when it's about to shed. Make sure it cannot be flipped over easily or you don't fill it up too high as to push the displaced water over the edge and cause great breeding grounds for bacteria.

Feeding

You may either feed Live or Frozen/thawed rats. This is also highly debatable, and here's why: Live rats can also get hungry and turn the tables on its predator, but if you feed the rats and give them enough water prior to feeding, there should be no problem. Once you feed live, a dead animal may never spark the feeding response again. But likewise, after feeding frozen, a live animal may just scare the snake. So, all in all, once you decide what to feed your snake there is a good chance you won't be able to re-make that decision. I was lucky. All the balls I've bought have been on live. Around July, I brought the temps up a little to feed more for breeding season. I had NO problem switching 99% of my snakes to pre killed.

Rats: 1. Are more nutritious, 2. Grow faster, which is good because balls eat big rats, and
3. Make really good pets. But.. Mice keep the snake slimmer, so I keep my males on mice until they are about 900 grams. At about 700 grams it takes two HUGE mice to fill up a snake, though.

...Or you can do what worked for me: Give your girlfriend some rats for her to breed, let her play with the babies until they get too big and you take them off her hands. This may sound mean, but that comes with owning any snake unless you buy those sausage things. (sausages don't breed as well as live rats do) So you may want to check with the soon-to-be-rat-breeder before hand. Joanna loved it.


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