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Boa Constrictor Care Sheet |
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nocturnal, semi-terrestrial/arboreal, carnivorous ~
Size and Life Span:
Boas can
reach in 6-11 feet in length and may live
25+ years in captivity. Males are always smaller than
females of the same species in boas.
Housing:
Enclosures
should be long enough for the snake to stretch out 1/2 its
length and the width approx. 1/3 of the animals length.
These could be custom built cages, aquariums or Neodesha
reptile cages.
Enclosures should be lockable, easy to clean and ventilated
yet be able to hold the heat.
We provide temperatures ranging from low 80's up to low
90's.
Our heat source is located at one end of the enclosure
allowing a temperature gradient. A thermometer is a must.
We use pine shavings as a ground medium, we find it works
well to soak up water spillage or urates. We recommend
placing a large piece of newspaper or brown paper down to
place food item on so that the shavings do not get stuck on
the prey item and become lodged in the snakes mouth or
throat. Fresh water should always be available. Bowls should
be cleaned and disinfected weekly. We do not provide bowls
large enough for them to fit into, just large enough to
drink from.
Temperature:
Temperature for a Boa should be
kept around 85F daytime and 80F at night. A basking site
in the range of 90-95F is also needed. If temperatures are
allowed to stay too cool, refusal of food, regurgitation of
food, digestive problems and respiratory infections will be
right behind! Heat should be from heating pads, pig
blankets, light bulbs, and NEVER EVER EVER from hot rocks. I
have even had success using small ceramic space heaters. The
heater should have small enough openings that tails can't
enter, an adjustable and covered thermostat, and should shut
off if tipped over. These radiate plenty of heat, but do not
develop the dangerous surface temps regular space heaters
tend to have. Remember to monitor temp very closely. It must
also be remembered that the temp at the bottom can be
10-15F lower than that at the top. Be sure the basking area
is placed so that a gradient is achieved, with the cool down
area being no lower than 80-85F.
Furnishings:
Water is the most important. Make
sure there is always a heavy, non-tip water dish that will
fit the boa for bathing. Secondly there should be a hide or
two, one on the how side, one on the cool side. Lastly, you
can add any climbing objects you want, as long as nothing
heavy can topple over on the snake.
Substrate:
Aspen bedding, paper towels,
astroturf, etc.
Diet:
Mice, rats,
guinea pigs and rabbits. We try to feed fresh killed or
frozen thawed prey over live.
Although when boas are very young it may be necessary to
feed live small rodents.
It may be enticing to watch your snake attack live prey, but
ultimately it may be dangerous to your boa if the prey
manages to get a good bite in first before it is eaten.
Never leave live food items in the enclosures for long
periods of time.
Remember -never handle rodents or food items and then handle
your snake, you may be mistaken for food.
Avoid handling your snake after feeding, as this may cause
regurgitation.
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