Enclosure:
Adult savannah monitors will need a
set-up about the size of a dinner table
or large sofa. Plan on 4 feet by 8 feet
of floor space. A design that works well
uses a galvanized steel stock watering
tank as the base with a plywood box of 8
feet long by 4 feet deep by 4 feet tall
set on top. The stock tank holds the
deep substrate, the box allows room to
move around above the ground. Limit
ventilation, especially on the hot side
of the cage, to prevent turning your
enclosure into a dehydration machine.
Avoid using wire mesh of any kind,
instead use glass or plexiglas to
maintain adequate humidity. Young
savannah monitors can be maintained in
aquaria of appropriate sizes with a
basking light set overhead and a sheet
of plexiglas over the top to limit
moisture loss. TEMPERATURE: The
cool side of the cage should be between
75° and 80° F, with temperatures
increasing to 90° to 100° F on the hot
end with basking spots as large as the
savannah monitor's body that reach 110°
to 130° F. Night time temperatures can
fall to normal room temperature.
HEAT/LIGHT: A warm basking spot
should be provided for this monitor by
radiant light. Racks of flood lamps work
well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at
60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height
above the basking spot to reach the
ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can
be supplied by large, robust heat mats
such as "pig blankets." The savannah
monitor should be able to rest its
entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet
light is not necessary. SUBSTRATE:
Dirt provides the best substrate. It
needs to be deep enough to allow the
savannah monitor to construct tunnels
and burrows naturally. This provides not
only security, but helps with regulating
humidity and temperature. Beware, not
all dirt is created equal. Go to a
nursery or landscape supply business and
choose a dirt that holds a burrow and
humidity, drains well, is not too dusty,
and does not turn to slime when wet.
Fill the savannah monitor's cage to a
depth of two feet.