Tarantula Care Sheet  

~ nocturnal, terrestrial or arboreal, insectivorous/carnivorous ~

Size:

Size depends on species. The largest ones known are Theraphosa blondi, the Goliath Bird Eater. They reach about 11-12", and the largest, I think, was 13.66" The size is measured from a back appendage to the front opposite, at an angle, when standing normally. Don't try to stretch it out or scrunch it up.

Life Span:

This also depends on species, but also sex. Males will live about 2 years, have their final molt, then only live for about 6-12 months. Some live longer, but they usually die in their post-ultimate molt. Females will live for about 15-20 years, and some are recorded of exceeding that.

Housing: 

The great attribute of Ts is that they require very little room. Actually, the bigger and more cluttered the terrarium, the harder it will be for the tarantula to catch its meal. For slings (spiderlings), a good rule of thumb is something with a diameter of 3 times the spider's. I give arboreals a height of 5-10 times the spider's width. Some people say 50% wider than the tarantula, but then you don't have room for water or hiding, if wanted. For a substrate, you must know the tarantula's humidity requirements, but I prefer Zoo Med's Eco Earth because its manipulativity . It can stay completely dry or be wetted when needed. Hiding places will make them feel more secure, and are good for Ts in aquariums, or any other see through walls. White deli cups and others of the sort don't require hides.

Temperature:

Another great attribute of Ts. Basically, anything you feel comfortable in, so will your tarantula. Anywhere from 65-85 degrees, I guess. My favorite temperature, as a snowboarder, is about 50 degrees, so this rule does not apply to me :-)

Lighting:

Tarantulas are nocturnal, so no lighting is required... Yet another great attribute...

Water:

Smaller slings can drink water right out of the Eco Earth. Anything big enough to drink water out of a water bottle cap should have one handy. I'd say anything over 1.5" should get a water cap. Anything between 1"-1.5" can use something equivalent to a milk carton cap. Bigger than 3.5" should get a Gatorade-size cap. DO NOT USE SPONGES. They are great for harboring bacteria, but don't try to save room by growing your bacteria in your T's tank. They don't like that. There's no reason to. Water will last long enough in a cap. There's no reason to get so lazy and to resort to sponges.

Diet:

Slings get pinhead crickets, and as they grow, so do their prey items. I usually feed when they look a little thinner, judging by the size of its abdomen. Chose food items a little smaller than how big their abdomen should be. If you're not sure, just pick something smaller. Once your T gets big enough, you can feed super worms, meal worms, and roaches. I breed Blaptica dubia, and they are great for the tarantula. Sometimes you can give them mice, and even small rats to bigger Ts, but you don't want to do it too often. Tarantulas don't need as much iron or calcium in their diet as other animals do because they don't have bones. If they are given too much calcium, it will only make it hard for them to absorb their inner exoskeleton before a molt, causing death.

Purchasing:

I wouldn't recommend buying anything under 1". I usually buy 1" Ts, so I rarely have anything smaller. Baby bugs aren't very hardy, so you may just be ironically wasting your money and time by choosing the "cheap" way out by buying a 1/4" sling. In terrestrial species, look for a large abdomen. In arboreals, look for the most active. Make sure to ask if they were wild caught (WC) or captive bred (CB). Although, a lot of adult tarantulas you may find will be WC because they have not yet been bred long enough to have adults born in the US.

Handling:

 Two subcategories: Can You and Should You.

Can You:
There are a couple species you can handle, as long as they are CB and weren't abused. These include: G. rosea, G. aureostriata, B. vegans, B. smithi, B. auratum, B. boehmei, A. avicularia, A. versicolor, A. metallica, and a few others. these are the most popular, however. Use a pencil's eraser to lightly rub the T's back legs, to wake it up and tell it you're not food. There are a few ways to pick up a tarantula. Pics will be added into the Tarantula Gallery specifying the steps.

Should You:
Most collectors and breeders say no. This is because they do not benefit from being handled, and the simple fact that a slight fall can rupture their abdomen, killing them. It is true that they can be handled, and ones that are seem to live just as long as the ones left alone. With that said, make your choice, and be careful.

Additional Info:

Tarantulas are put in a few different categories. These include: New world, Old world, Arboreal, and Terrestrial. I made a handy dandy chart to simplify it, and attribute colors to the different species.

Examples would be: Poecilotheria regalis, Avicularia avicularia,
                                Haplopelma lividium, Brachypelma smithi

Most New world Ts are much tamer, and usually have longer bristles, and Old world Ts are the opposite.


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