 |
Uromastyx Care Sheet |
|
~diurnal, terrestrial, omnivorous~
Size:
From 14 inches to 30 inches depending
upon specific species of spiny tail lizard. See below for
specific details.
Life Span:
Believed to be 30 years or more.
Housing:
Uros need at least a 55 gallon
tank for one or 75 is fine for two. 40 breeders are better though, it's
easier to get the UVB bulb closer the the Uro. It depends what you can get, really.
They should have a ledge or rock going up to the UV light; I've found they
constantly use it. There should be a food dish with vegetables always at
hand and a water bowl. Although not all Uros will use it, some do
and it's worth having. Also, you should give them a bath twice a
month and especially when they look like they are about to
shed. That's pretty much it for the furnishing except for:
Substrate: I've found Astroturf works the best. it
retains most heat and is easy to replace and clean. It also
looks a lot nicer than most substrates for Uros. They do like to
dig though, so in that respect sand would be more appreciated.
The Temperature should be about 85 at the cool end and have a
basking spot of 120. This is vital and must be checked,
otherwise they will not digest properly. Just remember that Uros
can withstand more heat than any other animal on the planet.
Temperature:
These lizards are adapted to hot desert
conditions. The cage should have a daytime hot basking spot
where the temperature exceeds 120 F, however the lizard must be
able to retreat to areas in the low 90s. Incandescent
spotlights can provide hot basking spots. The wattage selected
depends upon the size of the cage. Thermometers should be placed
at both ends of the cage and monitored to ensure a proper
temperature gradient. Under tank heaters can be used to
supplement heat, however these are diurnal species and regulate
their body temperature by basking in the sun. Spotlights more
accurately approximately the way diurnal lizards obtain their
heat naturally. Night time temperatures should be less that the
daytime highs. Temperatures should be allowed to drop into the
mid 60s F.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet light is believed to be
important for most lizards. Unfiltered sunlight (i.e. not
through glass) is the best sources of ultraviolet light and
lizards should always be exposed to sun whenever possible. There
are several full spectrum fluorescent light bulbs on the market.
Most claim that they duplicate the sun's light spectrum, however
it is unlikely that any can achieve the intensity of ultraviolet
light emitted by the sun. There is no scientific research
supporting the assumption that these bulbs are beneficial,
however there use is recommended since there is some antidotal
evidence that they provide psychological benefits to the
lizards. The new ZOOMED full spectrum bulb appears to have the
highest UVA and UVB of any of the full spectrum bulbs on the
market, therefore it is recommended.
Water:
Most desert species are adapted to live
without free water. Uromastyx ornatus comes from the
Sinai Peninsula where it rains less than 2 inches per year. Many
species obtain moisture from the food they consume. There is
evidence that some species, such as the Australian Moloch and
North American horned lizards, collect morning dew on their
scales which is then channeled toward the mouth. Many
herpetoculturists soak their Uromastyx aegyptius in water
and claim that the animal swells as it absorbs water. Whether
the animal is actually filling up with water or only filling
it's body cavity with air is unknown. Considering that this is a
desert species, soaking in water seems inconsistent with
adaptations to arid conditions and could lead to respiratory
infections if the animal does not thoroughly dry after soaking.
Water can be provided infrequently in a bowl. The bowl should
not be left for long periods in the cage or it can raise the
humidity to possibly unacceptable levels. Baby Uromastyx
ornatus will drink water sprayed on the side of the cage.
Diet:
Uromastyx are omnivorous which
means they consume both animal and plant materials. Since there
is no data about the specific nutritional requirements of this
genus a large variety of food items should be offered. Young
animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets,
and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four
times per week. The following vegetables should be offered;
kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots,
peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens,
alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such
as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be
provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding.
Bird seed should also be mixed in with the salad. A reptile
vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the salad.
Some of the commercial iguana chows can also be mixed in with
the salad to ensure better nutrition. There are some indications
that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus.
Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx
aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow
growth rates.
|
